Sewing Machine Needles: Types, Sizes and Which One to Use

The needle system: 130/705 H

A home sewing machine needle has a flat shank, so it only goes in one way. SCHMETZ explains the code: “130/705 means the needle has a flat shank. H translates from a German word that means scarf, that little indentation on the back of the needle above the eye.”¹ The scarf lets the bobbin hook catch the thread under the needle plate.³ Extra letters name the type: “-J for jeans; Q for Quilting; M for Microtex etc.”¹

Two exceptions: some BERNINA machines use system 705 B, with a shorter point, and sergers often use ELx705 needles, which SCHMETZ says not to use in home sewing machines.¹

Size chart

SCHMETZ measures the blade: “size 75 is .75mm”.³ The metric size and the US size always go together.¹

Needle size chart: metric (NM) and US sizes

Metric / US	Typical use
60/8, 65/9, 70/10	The finest sizes, for sheer and lightweight fabrics: Brother gives 65/9 to 75/11 for lightweight fabrics, SINGER 70 or 80 for sheer ones2,4,5
75/11, 80/12	Lightweight to medium fabrics; 75/11 for machine embroidery on Brother’s SE7005
90/14	Medium-weight fabrics4,5
100/16	Denim of 12 ounces or more, canvas5
110/18	Medium to heavy fabrics4
120/19	The largest universal size SCHMETZ lists3

Two rules from the makers: “the lighter the fabric the smaller the needle size and the heavier the fabric the larger the needle size” (SINGER), and the eye “should be 40% larger than the diameter of the thread” (SCHMETZ).^4,9 Brother adds a caution: sewing heavy fabrics such as denim with thin needles (65/9 to 75/11) may break the needle and cause injury.⁵

Needle types and their colour codes

The difference between needles is mostly the point and the eye: a sharp point pierces tight wovens, a ball point slips between knit fibres, and a larger eye protects thicker or fragile thread.³

SCHMETZ marks its needles with colour bands: “The top band identifies needle type. The lower band identifies needle size.” Universal needles carry only the size band.^1,10

Main needle types, as SCHMETZ describes them

Type	Point	For	Top colour band
Universal	Slightly rounded	Wovens and knits, general purpose3	None (size only)3
Microtex (sharp)	Very slim, acute	Silk, microfibres, coated fabrics, batik, piecing7	Purple3
Jersey	Medium ball point	Knits and some stretch fabrics11	Orange3
Stretch	Medium ball point	Highly elastic knits with Lycra or spandex12	Yellow3
Embroidery	Ball point, wide eye	Rayon and polyester embroidery threads13	Red3
Jeans	Medium ball point, reinforced blade	Denim and thick wovens3	Blue3

When to change the needle

The makers give a rule of thumb, with a caveat:

• SCHMETZ: “replace the needle after eight (8) hours of use and at the beginning of each project.”²
• SINGER: “every 8-10 hours of stitching time”, or “after sewing two to three garments or after hitting a pin.”⁴
• SCHMETZ’s own FAQ admits it is “Hard to know. It could be three seconds or 20 hours.” The signs: shredded or broken threads, skipped or uneven stitches, puckering, large holes, and popping or clicking sounds.¹

New Mexico State’s extension checklist lists a bent or blunt needle, and a needle too fine for the thread, among the causes of upper thread breaking.¹⁴

Six needles to know

Everyday wovens and knits

SCHMETZ Universal 130/705 H

System

130/705 H

Sizes

60/8 to 120/19, and assortments

Colour code

size band only

Strengths

• A general purpose needle, per SCHMETZ
• Widest range of sizes

Drawbacks

• Not the best choice for highly elastic knits

Good fit: you want one needle for most everyday sewing.
Skip it if: you sew very stretchy knits or embroider: use a stretch or embroidery needle.

Fine wovens and precise topstitching

SCHMETZ Microtex (sharp)

System

130/705 H-M

Point

very slim, acute

Colour code

purple top band

Strengths

• Crisp straight stitching, per SCHMETZ
• For coated materials, per SCHMETZ

Drawbacks

• Not for knits

Good fit: you sew silk, microfibre, batik or piece quilts.
Skip it if: you sew knits: SCHMETZ points knits to jersey or stretch needles.

Knits

SCHMETZ Jersey

System

130/705 H SUK

Point

medium ball point

Colour code

orange top band

Strengths

• Ball point designed to avoid breaking knit fibres, per SCHMETZ

Drawbacks

• Sizes 70/10 to 100/16 only

Good fit: you sew t-shirts and other knits.
Skip it if: your knit is very elastic: try the stretch needle.

Highly elastic knits

SCHMETZ Stretch

System

130/705 H-S

Sizes

75/11, 90/14

Colour code

yellow top band

Strengths

• Special eye and scarf to prevent skipped stitches, per SCHMETZ

Drawbacks

• Two sizes only on the maker store

Good fit: you sew swimwear, activewear or fabrics with spandex.
Skip it if: you sew stable wovens.

Machine embroidery

SCHMETZ Embroidery

System

130/705 H-E

Sizes

75/11, 90/14

Colour code

red top band

Strengths

• Wide eye and groove protect fast-moving threads, per SCHMETZ

Drawbacks

• Two sizes

Good fit: you embroider with rayon or polyester embroidery thread.
Skip it if: you sew regular seams: a universal is enough.

SINGER's own universal needle

SINGER Universal 80/12

Size

80/12 on this product page

Use

universal (Style 2020), light weight at 80/12

Strengths

• Sold by SINGER
• SINGER's own fabric table makes sizing simple

Drawbacks

• System and colour code not written on the product page

Good fit: you own a SINGER and want the maker's own needles.
Skip it if: you need a specialty type: SINGER's page covers the universal.

For denim needles, see our guide to needles for denim.