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Which Needle to Use for Denim

Guide type
Best of
Last reviewed
Sources
12 cited
Tested by us
No. How we research

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Short answer

Use a jeans (denim) needle in size 90/14 or 100/16. SCHMETZ says to "use at least size 90/14, although you may need to move up a needle size to 100/16" for thick seams, and Brother's SE700 manual pairs denim of 12 ounces or more with a 100/16 needle and 30 weight thread.1,2 A jeans needle has "a medium ball point and a reinforced blade" so it bends less in thick layers.3 For heavy topstitching thread, switch to a topstitch needle, which has a longer eye.4,5

Size: 90/14 to 110/18

Needle size for denim, per the makers
DenimNeedleSource
Thick denim seamsAt least 90/14, up to 100/16SCHMETZ1
Denim of 12 ounces or more, canvas100/16, with 30 weight threadBrother SE700 manual2
Denim and canvas16/100 (Denim / Jeans)SINGER6
Brother's figures come from its SE700 needle table; SINGER's from its help center.

Type: jeans, gold jeans, twin or topstitch

The jeans needle is the base: SCHMETZ describes “a modified medium ball point and a reinforced blade”, made for denim, twill, canvas and thick wovens, and also used by some quilters through many layers.3,8 Its top colour band is blue.5 The Gold Jeans version adds a titanium nitride coating that SCHMETZ calls “significantly harder than the standard coating”, for longer needle life; it comes in 90/14 and 100/16 only.10 For two parallel rows on a hem, there is a jeans twin needle, and for heavy topstitching thread a topstitch needle with an elongated eye.5,9

Five denim needles

The everyday denim needle

SCHMETZ Jeans

System
130/705 H-J
Sizes
70/10 to 110/18, assorted 90/100/110
Point
medium ball point, reinforced blade
Strengths
  • Less deflection and breakage, per SCHMETZ
  • Sizes from 70/10 to 110/18
Drawbacks
  • A heavy-duty needle needs a machine that can take thick layers

Good fit: you sew or hem jeans, canvas or other thick wovens.
Skip it if: you sew knits: use a ball point jersey or stretch needle.

Coated for longer life

SCHMETZ Gold Jeans

System
130/705 H-JT
Sizes
90/14, 100/16
Coating
titanium nitride
Strengths
  • Harder coating for extra-long needle life, per SCHMETZ
Drawbacks
  • Two sizes only

Good fit: you sew a lot of denim, work clothes or bags.
Skip it if: you need sizes outside 90/14 and 100/16.

Two rows of stitches at once

SCHMETZ Jeans Twin 4.0/100

System
130/705 H-J ZWI
Spacing / size
4.0 mm / 100
Strengths
  • Two parallel rows in one pass
Drawbacks
  • Needs a zigzag needle plate, per SCHMETZ

Good fit: you want parallel topstitching on jeans hems.
Skip it if: your machine has only a straight stitch plate fitted: change to a zigzag plate first.

For heavy topstitching thread

SCHMETZ Topstitch 130 N

System
130 N
Sizes
80/12, 90/14, 100/16
Eye
elongated
Strengths
  • Long eye for heavy threads, per SCHMETZ
Drawbacks
  • Slightly rounded point, not a reinforced denim blade

Good fit: you topstitch jeans with heavy or multiple threads.
Skip it if: you sew seams in thick denim: use a jeans needle.

SINGER's own, 100/16 and 110/18

SINGER Denim needles

Sizes
100/16, 110/18
Use
denim, heavyweight or layered fabrics
Strengths
  • SINGER says they fit Singer, Brother, Kenmore and other machines
  • Listed on SINGER's Canadian store
Drawbacks
  • Needle system not written on the product page

Good fit: you want a maker-sold denim needle, in the US or Canada.
Skip it if: you need a size below 100/16.

Buying in Canada

SINGER’s Canadian store lists its 100/16 denim needles.11 Its US page describes them for “stitching denim and other heavyweight or layered fabrics.”12 The SCHMETZ needles are sold on schmetzneedles.com; we have not checked which Canadian stores carry them.

Questions

What size needle should I use for denim?

Start at 90/14 and go to 100/16 for thick seams: SCHMETZ says "use at least size 90/14, although you may need to move up a needle size to 100/16."1 SINGER's table gives 16/100 for denim and canvas, and Brother's SE700 manual 100/16 with 30 weight thread for denim of 12 ounces or more.2,6 Jeans needles also come in 110/18; SINGER's table gives 16/100 or 18/110 for medium to heavy fabrics.3,6

Can I use a universal needle on denim?

For light denim it may work, but the makers point to a jeans needle: SCHMETZ says its reinforced blade gives "minimum needle deflection, reduced risk of needle breakage and fewer skipped stitches."3

Why do my needles break on jeans?

SINGER: a breaking needle "can be an indication that the needle size is too small for the thickness of fabric being sewn, so change to a larger size needle", and don't push or pull the fabric.6 Brother warns that heavy fabrics such as denim with thin needles (65/9 to 75/11) may break the needle.7

Which needle for topstitching jeans?

A topstitch needle, which SCHMETZ says is useful for heavy, multiple or poor-quality threads, thanks to its elongated eye.4,5 For seams with a jeans needle, SCHMETZ says to choose the size by the thread: "The heavier jeans threads work best with the larger needle."8

Can I use a twin needle on denim?

Yes, SCHMETZ sells a jeans twin needle (4.0 mm, size 100). It warns: if you use a straight stitch plate, "you must change it to a zig-zag stitch plate to avoid hitting the plate with the needles!"8,9

Bottom line

For jeans, keep jeans needles in 90/14 and 100/16, and a topstitch needle for heavy thread. Go up a size when the needle bends or breaks, guide the fabric without pulling it, and check your machine's thickness limit before sewing thick seams.

Related guides

What we checked, and what we didn't

Checked
  • Needle sizes, points and stated uses on SCHMETZ and SINGER pages
  • Denim needle and thread combinations in Brother's SE700 manual and SINGER's help center
Not checked
  • How each needle sews your denim: we have not tested them
  • Your machine's limit for thick seams: check its manual
  • Which Canadian stores carry the SCHMETZ needles

Sources

  1. FAQ · SCHMETZ needles (US)
  2. SE700 Sewing and Embroidery Machine Operation Manual (888-P10) · Brother
  3. Jeans / Denim Sewing Machine Needles · SCHMETZ needles (US)
  4. Topstitch Sewing Machine Needles · SCHMETZ needles (US)
  5. SCHMETZ Needle Guide #D-87 (2022) · SCHMETZ (Euro-notions, US importer)
  6. Choosing the right SINGER machine needles · SINGER Help Center
  7. Operation Manual 888-N00 family (CS7000X) · Brother
  8. How to Pick the Correct Sewing Machine Needle · SCHMETZ needles (US)
  9. Jeans / Denim Twin Sewing Machine Needle · SCHMETZ needles (US)
  10. Gold Denim Needles · SCHMETZ needles (US)
  11. SINGER Denim Needles, size 100/16 · SINGER Canada
  12. SINGER Denim Needles, size 100/16 · SINGER

Revision history

2026-11-10First version.